“Elegance is when the inside is as beautiful as the outside.”
Described as the heart of a watch, it is the movement that animates the hands on the dial.
What is a watch movement?
There are two main categories of watch movements: mechanical movements and electronic movements known as “quartz”.
Mechanical movements are divided into two distinct families. Hand-wound and automatic-wound mechanisms. In both models they are equipped with a barrel connected to a spiral spring. The energy stored during the winding of the watch will allow the compression of the spring by the barrel. This stored energy will be progressively released to allow the watch to operate. In the case of the manual mechanism, it will be all it takes to compress the spring by turning the crown. The watch will then have an autonomy that can vary from 12 hours to several days depending on the models, the average being around 40 hours. However, in an automatic mechanism, an oscillating weight that rotates around its axis will be added to the cylinder and spring. This is what will allow the compression of the spring thanks to the movements of the wrist.
Quartz movements are less charismatic than their predecessors but much more accurate. They consist of a printed circuit board powered by an electric battery that will allow the vibration of a quartz oscillator.
The life of a battery is generally several years without the need for servicing except for a leak test.
Today, Switzerland is still the first world watchmakers with manufacturers such as ETA, Ronda, Soprod, or Vaucher. In recent years, Japan has entered the watch industry (mid-range) with companies such as Seiko and Citizen, which are equipped with Hattori and Miyota movements. The economic advantage is clearly shown by the prices charged by these manufacturers (at least 80% cheaper than Swiss movements). However, the cruel lack of reliability and precision works against them.
The selection of Luthes
Split between two large houses, the choice of mechanical movement was one of the most difficult decisions. On the one hand, the pioneer and undisputed 2824-2 from ETA, and on the other hand, the stunning and prestigious M100 from Soprod.
The 2824-2 movement has 25 jewels and a power reserve of 38 hours. It has proven its worth with the world’s leading watchmaking companies for decades and is renowned for being among the most reliable and accurate on the market today. It is indeed this movement that we chose in July 2017 to equip our very first prototypes.
After many tests, our choice finally turned to the Swiss manufacturer, Soprod.
The M100 movement also features 25 jewels and has a 42-hour power reserve. Its advantage over its competitor is undoubtedly its meticulous finishes (côtes de Genève, beadwork, possible blue screws,…) as well as its thickness (3.6mm against 4.6mm for the 2824-2).
Close companion of the ETA 2892-A2, the M100 is just as accurate and has proven its reliability and precision.
Reliability was for us the main decision criterion since we wanted a robust movement in order to create a watch that could endure over time. All our watches will be covered by a lifetime warranty to certify our commitment to this reliability.
The aesthetics of the movement was our second main criterion since we chose to make all our automatic mechanical models visible through a sapphire crystal glass.
The movement will only be visible at the back for automatic models but on both sides thanks to an open dial in the centre for skeleton models (photo below).
To offer an even more accessible custom-made watch, we have chosen to add the quartz movement to the catalogue.
Trusting the Swiss quality, we instinctively went to the leaders in the field. For us, Ronda was without hesitation the best possible choice for the quartz movement. It is with its PowerTech 515 calibre that the brand seduced us.
All our movements are Swiss-Made certified. A label that certifies the Swiss origin of a product. In addition to being Swiss-Made, our Ronda and Soprod movements are Swissness certified.
This new legislation, which has recently been published, lays down very strict and clear rules to combat the abusive use of the “Swiss brand or Swiss-Made” labels. Sadly, they are still far too little respected.
Our movements are consequently guaranteed to be produced and manufactured 100% in Switzerland with at least more than 60% of the product coming from the country itself.
A French movement by Luthes?
Sadly, the French movement has disappeared over time and no longer exists in France. Even if some French manufacturers are trying to bring it back to life, there are still many limits linked to an unknown movement for all watchmakers (repairs possible only at the brand that produces it, youthful defects, lack of perspective,…).
In our hearts, the idea of developing a movement 100% French and designed on a foundation known by all watchmakers around the world, has always been in a corner of our heads. Currently in research and development it is with great excitement that we are working on the design of the mechanism. Unfortunately, it is essential to test its robustness and accuracy for many months before being able to offer it to the public. We will therefore need time before we can tell you more.Back to homepage